When adjusting the settings of your camera, manually, he main features are ISO, aperture and exposure. ISO is the sensitivity of the camera's sensor, it increases/decreases the brightness of a photo. A lower ISO, an example is using less than 400, is better when there is a lot of light where the photo is being taken. The aperture is the physical size of the hole that is inside of your cameras lens, this hole size can be changed by changing the aperture. If the size of the hole is bigger, the more light will be let into the lens to expose the sensor. Exposure is controlled by the camera's light meter and it is the amount of light that reaches your camera sensor. It will determine how light or dark your final picture will be.
WHITE BALANCE
White balance is a setting on the camera, and with it you control how the colours are caotured in different types of light. By setting the correct white balance, you are thinking about the colour temperature of the light in your image.There are 7 basic white balance settings: -Auto: when the camera makes its own guess on a shot by shot basis. -Tungsten: This is mostly used when the image is being take indoors, especially under the tungsten lighting. -Fluorescent: This choice compensates for the cool light of fluorescent light and warms up the images. -Daylight/sunny: It sets things as 'normal' and just enhances the existing colours of the image's scene. -Cloudy: This warms things up a bit, more than the 'daylight' setting. -Flash: The flash on the camera can be more of a cooler light, therefore flash WB mode warms up the pictures slightly. -Shade: The light in shade is generally cooler than when shooting in direct sunlight, and the shade mode warms things up a bit. I tried the different white balance settings, whilst having the camera set to auto exposure. I found that daylight/sunny was more reflective of how our human eyes see things, and just enhanced colour and set a warm tone for the image. All the images that did turn out with a more 'cool' colouring were from the settings flash,fluorescent and shade. When taking the image indoors, those setting do not really suit the image, and reallt dicolours it. |
ISO
For this experiment, the camera was set to manual mode, where i set the ISO to 200, and aperture to f/8. I pointed the camera to a illuminated subject and set the correct exposure. It took a few shots to get the exposure on the right setting, for the photo to come out well. I repeated the excersise setting the ISO to 400 and then also 800. From this excersise i understood better that the ISO affects shutter speed as if the ISO is higher, it allows a faster shutter speed, which reduces blurs caused by subjects or camera movement.
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The exposure triangle
The camera was set on manual mode again, and i had the ISO on 800 and aperture on f/5.6. I had the subject backlit and exposed the camera to the whole scene, then to the background, then the subject's face. The settings stayed the same for each image, however the outcome changed for each. The first image , the subject was very backlit, and therefore was very dark, and the bright background took up majority of the image. Once i pointed the camera to the background, the image came out very dark overall, as the settings had been set to the bright light from before entering the lens. The lasty image was a bit brighter and quite well detailed. |
shutter speed
I used a tripod for this set of images, and set the ISO to 100 and used a shady spot as well. We used our phone flash, which we aimed towards the camera . The subject moved the flash around, and with the correct exposure we made a series of images using shutter speeds. With the slower shutter speeds, it lasted much longer and so there was more time for the moving around the phone, therefore could be done slower, which created cleaner versions of the light. I really liked this set of images as i think the light looked very cool, and so many different patterns could be produced, you just had to focus on it, which could be done with more time form the slow shutter speed. |